Ffos Anoddun: Secrets of the Fairy Glen

Nestled in the heart of the North Wales countryside is a secluded spot known for centuries as Ffos Anoddun.  It is better known, outside the country by its English name – Fairy Glen. Yet there is a little something lost in translation.  The Welsh name literally translates as the Ravine of Annwn – which has altogether darker connotations. In Welsh mythology, Annwn is the Otherworld, a realm of eternal youth, beauty, and abundance, often associated with fairies and the afterlife. This connection adds a layer of mystique to the already enchanting landscape of the place. But the fairies you might find here are not those you will see in Disney films, for certain sure.

 Ffos Anoddun is located just outside the village of Betws-y-Coed (which means "Prayer House in the Woods" but is never referred to in translation). It lies along the River Conwy, nestled within a wooded valley - we'll take a look at the journey there shortly. The site is accessible via a short, steep path from a nearby car park off the A470 road, making it a popular spot for visitors seeking picturesque waterfalls, mossy rocks, and a magical woodland atmosphere. Not to mention fairies.

Let's stop for a second...

  Before we go on, we have to add that you can only really get to the glen by car. However, the surrounding countryside is a wonderful precursor to what lies ahead of you. There is something new to see around every bend in the road.  In the summer, this place is so green it almost redefines the colour.

  You will know you are getting closer when you pass Tu Hwnt i'r Bont, in nearby Llanrwst (which translates to "the others side of the bridge"). It's a working cafe, so a great place for a cup of tea (the Welsh are easily as addicted to tea as the English). Ask for some bara brith to go with your cuppa and you won't regret it!

  You might even stop off for a few minutes at the Roman Bridge in nearby Penmachno. The name likely comes from local tradition or Victorian-era romanticism, when old-looking structures were often labelled "Roman" to lend them historic gravitas. In fact, it probably only dates back to the sixteenth century - a relative newcomer in a country so steeped in legend and history.  As a by-the-by, my father was born in the village of Penmachno in 1934.

  Also, on your way is the remarkable Rhaeadr Ewynnol. That means “Foaming Waterfall”, which describes the white, rushing cascades perfectly. In English, it is called Swallow Falls. The Welsh name avoids the English “swallow” (the bird) and instead captures the waterfall’s physical character. There are plenty of swallows (and swifts) around during the summer, so the jury is out when it comes to which is the most appopriate name. If you wish to go with the more romantic English version, then perhaps translate it into Rhaeadrau'r Wennol for the sake of the (predominantly Welsh speaking) locals. Wennol - such a great sounding name for such a beautiful bird.

Time, at last, to take the short walk to Fairy Glen.

  I loved going here as a child on a fairy hunt but it was always during the day. According to folklore, the Tylwyth Teg, or Welsh fairies, are traditionally seen as mysterious but generally harmless beings during the day. They have been described as beautiful, graceful, and even helpful. During daylight, they are thought to go about their own business, dancing, tending nature, or simply resting. They will usually avoid direct contact with humans. Because the daylight exposes them to the natural world, their magic and powers are limited, making them less threatening or frightening.

  So, of course I was happy to look for them in daylight. At night, however, the narrative changes. Once the sun has set, the Tylwyth Teg become far more unpredictable and potentially dangerous – even malevolent. Under the cover of darkness, their magical abilities are stronger, and they are said to roam freely, often tricking, kidnapping, or leading travellers astray. Nighttime was seen as the realm where their otherworldly powers were at their peak, and people feared encountering them because they could enchant or curse humans, steal children (more about that later), or cause misfortune. At night I didn’t go fairy hunting at all.  And, much to my chagrin, I never got any Cottingley syle photos either!

  For those unused to the Welsh language, the original name may look a little difficult to pronounce. Unlike English, Welsh is purely phonetic, so once you get the hang of it, there are virtually no exceptions to the rules. So, here’s a short pronunciation guide. Ffos: this pronounced like "force" with a shorter "o" sound like the “o” in “gloss”. Anoddun is pronounced as an-OTH-in (with the “o” as if “of”). There is no “d” sound as in the English in the word at all. The “dd” is pronounced much like the “th” in “the”. Only a single “d” in Welsh is pronounced as in English. So together, it’s pronounced as foss an-OTH-in. See? Simple!

  As seasons change, so does the appearance of the glen.  It is easy to see why such a great deal of folklore has sprung from this one small place.

One enduring legend suggests that Merlin (Myrddin), the famed wizard of Arthurian lore, sought refuge in the secluded depths of Fairy Glen. After exerting immense magical energy to facilitate King Arthur's birth, Myrddin is said to have retreated to this tranquil gorge to recuperate. The glen's secluded nature and mystical ambiance made it an ideal sanctuary for the weary enchanter.

Myrddin was probably happy among the tylwyth teg – and it’s likely they didn’t dare bother him during day or night.  These ethereal beings are thought to dwell in the ravine's moss-covered rocks and shimmering waters. Local folklore warns that disturbing the natural harmony of the area, such as by removing stones or littering, could incur the fairies' displeasure.

It's said that under the right conditions, the sounds of the River Conwy flowing through the ravine can resemble the melodies of fairy music. These auditory illusions contribute to the belief that the place serves as a portal between the human world and Annwn, the Welsh Otherworld; a realm of eternal youth and beauty.

Knowing the changeable nature of the fair folk, it is little wonder that many visitors choose to leave a gift for the tylwyth teg.  Trees at the site have hundreds, if not thousands, of coins embedded for them as a kind of toll for disturbing the home of the Welsh fairies.  It isn’t encouraged but old superstitions die hard.

  We will end with a word of warnng. In Welsh folklore, the fairies were believed (as already mentioned) to kidnap human children and replace them with changelings. So, if your kids start acting a little differently after you leave, don't say we didn't warn you!

First Image Credit