9 April 2023

The Ennedi Plateau: Secret Stones of the Sahara

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Rising from the sands of the great Sahara Desert, the Ennedi Plateau is a revelation.  Situated in the north east of Chad and surrounded by sand on all sides, this extraordinary, other-worldly place presents vista after vista of stunning rock formations.
Ennedi is little visited – there is nothing you could realistically call a road for many miles. The plateau is frequented only by local nomads and a handful of foreign visitors in their 4x4s.

Yet even though the landscape resembles somewhere the crew of the Enterprise might find themselves on an away mission, these rocks – as you will see - hide something perhaps even more astonishing.

20 November 2022

Land Art

Germany based artist Walter Mason has an affinity for pulling things apart and then putting them back in to place – but in a subtly changed way.  Chunks of ice can become upended, forming a chilly henge, elm leaves are stitched together then allowed to float away on the stream.  Beech leaves, torn asunder, find a new home on a lily leaf.  Yet the result is something quite extraordinary – intriguing but temporary, organic art which is recorded for posterity only on camera.  Following very much in the land art tradition, you can see more examples of Mason’s ingenious art at his Flickr photostream and on his tumblr page.

15 May 2016

The Babson Boulders of Dogtown

Roger Babson had a problem. His family thought he was crazy or felonious or both.  He had started to carve mottoes in to the boulders which lay in the fields near the long abandoned settlement of Dogtown close to his home in Gloucester, Massachusetts.

Babson was later to write in his autobiography: My family says that I am defacing the boulders and disgracing the family with these inscriptions, but the work gives me a lot of satisfaction, fresh air, exercise and sunshine. I am really trying to write a simple book with words carved in stone instead of printed paper. Besides, when on Dogtown common, I revert to a boyhood which I once enjoyed when driving cows there many years ago.

11 December 2010

The Bizarre Belogradchik Rocks

The western slopes of the Balkan Mountains in Bulgaria are home to a bizarre rock formation which has fascinated and intrigues both locals and visitors alike for thousands of years. Often reaching several hundred meters in height they vary in shade, as do the many legends which surround them.

The nearest town to the formation is Belogradchik and it is from this pretty town of seven thousand people that the name is also taken. The Balkans are full of myth and legends and no place echoes with the mythology and folklore of the region more than the Belogradchik Rocks.

The formation is made from limestone, sandstone and conglomerates. These are composed of fragments or clasts of pre-existing rock bound together in a matrix and sedimentary in nature. Sedimentation happens when rock particles which are in suspension are removed from the fluid in which they are contained and form rock.

The different compositions of the formation are reflected in their wonderful and divers shades of color which vary from a rich red to a pale yellow with plenty of grey too. Over the millennia the rocks have been weathered by the elements so that they resemble objects or even people. A Bulgarian Natural Landmark, if ghosts exist this place will have them aplenty.

What makes the place even more interesting is the location of the fortress, set within the rock formation. It too takes its name from the town of Belogradchik but it is also known as Kaleto from the Turkish for fortress – a name which echoes the place’s Ottoman past. An almost impenetrable stronghold, it is the Helm’s Deep of Bulgaria.

Spread over an area of more than 50 square kilometers the central group of rocks in the formation is to the south of the town – and this is where the visitors flock. There you have rocks which bear names such as Adam and Eve, the Dervish, the goddess Bendida and the Rebel Velko.

There are four other groups of rocks which make up the formation as a whole. The Permian period of around 230 years ago saw the beginning of the formation when the Balkan Mountains were formed by the tectonic cycle. The whole region was elevated, yet it later became the floor of a shallow see in the following Triassic period.

During this time many rocks were destroyed to gravel, clay and sand. This mixture was deposited in to the sea basin by the local rivers. Over a vast period of time the sediment piled up and became the thick layers of sandstone and conglomerates that we see today. These have been shaped and rounded over time by the sheer force of water against it.

The Jurassic period saw the layered materials bonded together and the climate became dry and hot. This then produced a great deal of iron oxide, whence the formation gets it occasional reddish color. The slowly settling crust then meant that the lighter sandstone amalgamated with the conglomerates.

The dawn of the Neozoic period saw the area turn to dry land. As the land folded the conglomerates and limestone cracked, which created large rifts in the local geological structure known as an anticline, of which the Belogradchik area is one. The way this happened encouraged erosion in the area to be vertical so that the rock shape was systematically changed to create the small valleys and passes that we see today.

Science aside, stories abound about various parts of the formation. One part of the formation is known as The Madonna. The story goes that this is the remnant of a nun whose beauty caused great envy among her peers. One day, during a festival, a handsome young nobleman appeared and the two began an illicit affair.

Like all illicit affairs of legend, theirs was discovered. The nun (now with baby) was expelled from her convent. Yet as she left the sky turned dark and a cataclysmic event destroyed the convent. The nun, her child, the monks who had judged her together with her young noble lover were all turned in to stone.

Another part of the formation is known as The Schoolgirl. This young woman fell in love with a blacksmith but her old teacher – a hunchbacked dervish – was jealous of this love. One day he followed her to a local spring and attacked her.

The girl managed to flee but turning a corner she ran in to an angry bear. Still pursued the girl had a choice – to be attacked by her ursine enemy or to succumb to rape. She chose to be eaten by the bear but as this was about to happen the sky turned dark.

All that was heard was three cries – that of the girl, the bear and the dervish. Then nothing, silence. When the light returned all three had been turned to stone.

These stories form part of the fascinating mythology and folklore which surrounds the Belogradchik Rocks. Even without them the place is an amazing discovery for the visitor. Yet stories like these add to the character of the place, giving it an edge which borders on the sinister. So the delight of sightseer is heightened even further by these spooky legends of the rocks.

27 September 2010

The Mysterious Moeraki Boulders

If you go down to Koekohe beach in New Zealand you can be sure of a big surprise. In front of you, scattered like enormous marbles from some long abandoned game between giants, are hundreds of giant spherical rocks. Or are they the egg shells of sea-born dragons? The Moeraki boulders present us with a mystery – what are they and how on earth did they get there?

Some are isolated but may occur in clusters. That they are here is the result of three things – erosion, concretion and time. First the waves, inexorable and patient, have pounded the local bedrock for countless millennia. The mudstone on the beach – rock which was originally mud and clay – is slowly but surely eroded. Underneath are the boulders that the mudstone – in its original wet form, helped to form. However, the boulders were not there to begin with – that came later.

Many of the Moeraki boulders give the impression of being completely spherical – and they almost are. They are septarian concretions – a sedimentary rock that has had the space between its individual grains filled up by minerals which acted like cement. Concretions form inside the layers of mud and clay and are not, as some think, boulders buried over time.

They do, however, tend to form early on in the history of the deposited sediment – it is thought they occur before the rest hardens in to rock. A consequence of concretion is that the resulting boulders are more resistant to the weathering effects of the element. So, when the rest of the sedimentary layers is eroded, the boulder (eventually) appears.

What is significant about these concretions is their size. They are big. While not unique on the planet, some of them are up to a meter in diameter but the majority range from 1.5 to 2.2 meters – that is almost seven feet in diameter. Most of them are almost perfect spheres.

The material responsible for their concretion is a carbonate mineral called calcite. In the center the concretion is sometimes quite weak (perhaps the opposite we might expect) but the exterior is usually the hardest part being made up of sometimes 20% calcite. Not only has the calcite concreted the boulder’s clay and silt – it has replaced a lot of it too.

There are large cracks on the boulders and these are known as septaria. The center of each boulder is hollow and the septaria radiate from there. It is not really known what causes these septaria but they can be filled up by several layers of calcite themselves and sometimes an extremely thin layer of quartz.

The Moeraki boulders date from the Paleocene epoch which translates as the early recent. In geological terms that may well be true, but that means that the boulders are at least fifty six million years old. Our own mammalian ancestors during that epoch were mostly small and rodent like until late on.

As you can imagine, there are many Māori legends concerning these hollow boulders. One says that they are eel baskets that came ashore when a large canoe was sunk. The reality is perhaps stranger than the legend. Yet whenever they get visitors, there always has to be one!

12 September 2010

Rock Balancing – Making a Splash with Stone

Peter Riedel’s art never lasts long – but that is partly the point.  He creates impermanent art from permanent parts of the landscape and these sculptures, in their very transience almost contradict the comparative eternalness of most art. Caught by the camera, they are, however, lent a form of immortality through digital means.

The Canadian photographer spends much of his time balancing rocks alongside rivers, lakes and the sea and then taking pictures of them as, for sure, were he to return the next day nature would quite possibly have done her work and changed the landscape.

Riedel comes and goes with little fuss.  Often the only evidence that he has been somewhere is the precariously balanced rock sculptures which appear as if they have been teleported down by James T and his crew.

What is perhaps the most astonishing thing about Riedel’s sculptures is that there is no glue or adhesive uses at all.  The artist uses a combination of trial and error and experience, using the natural center of gravity and balance to create his impossible looking sculptures.

An installation will typically take him about four hours and so it is possible to catch him in the act, depending on its size.  The secret, so he has maintained, is finding the right rocks with the right surface and good footing. Algae and other natural slime are wiped off a stone it is added to a sculpture.  Occasionally the artist will lend a further hand by grinding down the flat part of a stone if it needs a little extra assistance in its temporary balancing act.

If you are very lucky, you may just get to see the artist in action.

The artist sees his work as a demonstration of the precarious nature of life.  At one point you think that you are in control and then things can collapse – spectacularly and with no given warning.  Anyone over the age of six will probably find that a familiar occurrence!

He also maintains that the energy and concentration needed to create his sculptures are a marvellous way to clear the head of life’s daily pressures and to focus on a single, transient but at the time all important activity. In terms of audience, there is no set time or gallery address to follow.

Most people find Riedel’s work by accident and that is all part of the art – and the fun.  By giving people a sense of mystery about his art, which has an intriguing air of playfulness about it (as if giants had been at play with pebbles perhaps) Peter Riedel without doubt leaves a smile on many a face too.

A typical sculpture will last about three days before nature has her way and it collapses.  However, that does not necessarily signal the end. After all, once a stone falls in to the water with a splash, does it not become a clean slate, meaning that the act of creation can happen all over again?

Kuriositas would like to thank Flickr User la boo for her very kind permission to use these pictures.  Please visit her Photstream at Flickr.